The dramatic, rain-swept landscape of Turkey's Karadeniz (Black Sea) region, where steep green mountains meet the often-wild sea, has forged a cuisine that is as unique and resilient as its people. This is not the Mediterranean fare of olives and sun-dried tomatoes, nor the spicy kebabs of the southeast. Karadeniz cuisine is a distinct world of its own, born from the specific bounty of its sea and highlands, a testament to resourcefulness and a deep connection to place. From the almost cult-like devotion to the humble hamsi (anchovy) and the comforting staple of mısır ekmeği (cornbread), to the rich dairy from highland pastures that culminates in the legendary sütlaç (rice pudding) of Hamsiköy, the flavours here tell a story of adaptation, tradition, and local pride.

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For us, Ola and Riza, exploring the food of the Black Sea coast was a delicious discovery of how geography and culture can so perfectly intertwine on a plate.‍ It's a cuisine that feels hearty, honest, and deeply rooted in the local environment, offering a true taste of this unique corner of Turkey.

The silver harvest: The reign of hamsi

If there's one ingredient that defines Karadeniz cuisine above all others, it is the hamsi, the small, silvery anchovy that throngs the Black Sea in cooler months. For the people of this coastal region, hamsi is not just a fish; it's a cultural icon, a source of sustenance, and the star of countless dishes. The sheer variety of ways hamsi is prepared is astonishing, showcasing local ingenuity. You'll find it simply fried (hamsi tava), often dusted with cornflour for a crispy coating; grilled (hamsi ızgara); baked with rice in a pilaf (hamsili pilav); incorporated into cornbread (hamsili ekmek); and even made into tiny meatballs (hamsi köftesi). There's even a saying: "If you see a Karadeniz local thinking, they're probably thinking of a new way to cook hamsi!" This "anchovy obsession" speaks to a history of relying on the sea's bounty in a region where other protein sources might have been less consistently available.

The golden grain: Cornbread and cornmeal comforts

With its damp climate and mountainous terrain, much of the Black Sea coast isn't ideally suited for growing wheat. Instead, corn (maize, or mısır in Turkish) became a staple crop, and its presence is deeply felt in the regional cuisine. The most iconic form is mısır ekmeği, a dense, often crumbly cornbread that is the perfect accompaniment to many Karadeniz dishes, especially those featuring fish or hearty stews.

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But corn's versatility doesn't end there. Cornflour is also the base for muhlama (also known as kuymak in some areas), a decadent, rich dish that is essentially a glorious cheesy cornmeal fondue. Made with local butter, cornflour, and stringy regional cheeses (like Trabzon peyniri or kolot peyniri), muhlama is a comforting, rib-sticking specialty, often enjoyed for breakfast, especially in the highlands. The importance of corn in this region is a clear example of how people adapt their food culture to what the local land can best provide.

From the lush hills: Greens, dairy, and highland flavours

The verdant, well-watered mountainsides of the Karadeniz also contribute unique ingredients. Distinctive local vegetables like kara lahana (black cabbage or collard greens) feature in hearty soups and stews. Wild greens and herbs, foraged from the hills, also add unique flavours.

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And then there's the dairy. The high-altitude summer pastures – the yaylas (which we explore in another article, "Summer in the Clouds") – are where cattle graze on rich grasses, producing high-quality milk. This milk is transformed into excellent butter, yoghurt, and a variety of local cheeses that are integral to the cuisine. This connection to highland pastoralism and quality dairy is perhaps most famously celebrated in a single, iconic dessert.

Hamsiköy sütlaç: A legendary dessert born from mountain milk

High in the Pontic Alps, inland from Trabzon, lies the small village of Hamsiköy. While its name confusingly contains "hamsi" (it actually means "five villages"), it's not famous for anchovies, but for its sütlaç (rice pudding). Hamsiköy sütlaç is legendary throughout Turkey, considered by many to be the very best. What makes it so special? Locals will tell you it's the quality of the milk and butter from cows that graze on the incredibly lush, diverse alpine flora of the surrounding yaylas.

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This sütlaç is typically richer and creamier than versions found elsewhere, often baked to get a lovely browned top, and served simply, allowing the quality of its few ingredients – rice, milk, sugar, and perhaps a touch of local butter or cream – to shine.The fame of this specific village's rice pudding is a wonderful example of how a simple dish, when made with exceptional local ingredients and tied to a particular place and its traditions, can become a powerful symbol of regional culinary pride and a draw for visitors.

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Karadeniz cuisine is a testament to the ingenuity of a people living in close harmony with a demanding yet bountiful environment. From the endless ways they prepare the humble hamsi to the comforting solidity of their cornbread and the celebrated creaminess of Hamsiköy sütlaç, the flavours of the Black Sea coast tell a story of resourcefulness, tradition, and a deep, abiding connection to the land and sea. It's a hearty, honest, and truly unique part of Turkey's rich culinary tapestry.

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