High in the Pontic Mountains of Turkey's Black Sea region (Karadeniz), often surrounded by clouds, an amazing structure seems to be built right into the side of a steep cliff. This is Sumela Monastery (Sümela Manastırı in Turkish), a place of breathtaking beauty and deep historical importance. For over fifteen hundred years, this remote sanctuary served as a vital centre of Greek Orthodox (a major branch of Christianity, particularly common in Eastern Europe and the Middle East) monastic life (life dedicated to religious devotion within a monastery), learning, and pilgrimage (journeys to holy places). Today, though the monks who lived there are long gone, Sumela stands as a powerful, if sometimes sad, testament to centuries of strong faith, remarkable human cleverness in building, and the complex, layered history of Christianity in Anatolia (the Asian part of modern Turkey).

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For us, Ola and Riza, the first sight of Sumela Monastery was truly unforgettable. It looks almost impossibly built, a man-made structure joined with the raw power of nature. But beyond its stunning visual impact, Sumela invites a deeper exploration into the story of the communities who built and kept it going for so long, and what its presence tells us today about the lasting echoes of a rich, multicultural past in modern Turkey.

A sanctuary in the sky: The founding and flourishing of Sumela

According to tradition, Sumela Monastery was founded in 386 CE (Common Era), during the rule of the Roman Emperor Theodosius I. Legend tells that two monks from Athens, Barnabas and Sophronios, were guided to this remote spot by an icon (a religious painting, often of a holy figure) of the Virgin Mary, said to have been painted by St. Luke the Evangelist (one of the writers of the Gospels in the Christian Bible). They discovered a cave high on the cliff face – Mela means "black" in Greek, possibly referring to the dark colour of the rock or a dark image of the Virgin – and established the first monastic community there.

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Over the centuries, especially during the Byzantine Empire (the Eastern Roman Empire) and the later independent Empire of Trebizond (of which nearby Trabzon was the capital), Sumela Monastery grew in importance and wealth. It received support and gifts from emperors, collected precious old manuscripts in its library, and became a well-known centre of Orthodox learning and spirituality. Its remote and naturally easy-to-defend location also offered a degree of protection during unsettled times. The core of the monastery is built around and into the natural cave. Chapels (small places of worship), monks' cells (simple living quarters), a library, kitchens, and guest rooms were gradually added over time, all appearing to hang from the cliff face in a remarkable display of architecture and sheer human determination.

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The interiors of its churches and chapels were once richly decorated with vibrant frescoes (wall paintings done on fresh, wet plaster). Though many are now faded, damaged by time, weather, and sometimes by vandalism (especially after the monastery was abandoned in the 20th century), enough remains to give a sense of their former beauty. These paintings typically show biblical scenes, pictures of Christ, the Virgin Mary, saints, and Byzantine emperors, all created in the distinctive style of Orthodox religious art.

A changing world: Abandonment and modern rediscovery

The life of Sumela Monastery continued for centuries, even after the Ottoman conquest of the region in 1461. The Ottoman Sultans, in many cases, granted protections and special rights to Orthodox monasteries, and Sumela remained an important Christian site within the Empire. However, the early 20th century brought profound and tragic changes to the region. Following World War I, the collapse of the Ottoman Empire, and the later Turkish War of Independence, a compulsory population exchange between Greece and Turkey took place in 1923. This agreement resulted in most of the Greek Orthodox population leaving Anatolia, including the monks of Sumela.

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The monastery was abandoned, left to face the harsh mountain weather and, sadly, periods of neglect and damage. For decades, it stood silent and largely empty, its treasures taken away or lost. However, in more recent times, its immense historical and cultural importance, as well as its stunning location, led to increased interest. Efforts have been made by the Turkish government towards its preservation and restoration, transforming it into one of the Black Sea region's most popular tourist attractions. It has also become a site of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians, particularly on the Feast of the Dormition of the Virgin Mary (15th August), when religious services have occasionally been permitted in recent years.

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Sumela Monastery, even in its current state as primarily a historical monument and tourist site, continues to echo with centuries of prayer, learning, and human resilience. It stands as a touching and visually amazing reminder of the deep, often hidden, layers of history that make up the cultural landscape of modern Turkey. Its story invites us to look beyond immediate appearances, to acknowledge complex pasts, and to appreciate the lasting human spirit that creates such extraordinary places of faith and refuge high in the mountains.

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