Imagine a life lived in rhythm with the changing seasons, a yearly journey from settled village to high mountain pasture, following ancient paths as the snows recede and fresh grass appears. This is the essence of yayla life, a traditional form of transhumance (the seasonal movement of people with their livestock between fixed summer and winter pastures) deeply woven into the cultural fabric of Turkey's Karadeniz (Black Sea) region. For centuries, communities here have moved their animals – primarily cattle – and often their entire households up into the cool, lush highland meadows for the summer months, returning to lower villages as autumn approaches. This isn't just about finding good grazing; it's a whole way of life, with its own unique architecture, foods, social structures, and a profound connection to a dramatic, often challenging, mountain environment.

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For us, Ola and Riza, learning about the yayla tradition was to discover a fascinating example of human adaptation and resilience.‍ It makes one think about different rhythms of living, the deep importance of community in remote settings, and how such ancient traditions navigate the pressures of the modern world.

What is a Yayla? The Heart of Highland Culture

The word yayla (pronounced YAI-lah) in Turkish refers to these high-altitude summer pastures or plateaus found in mountainous regions. In the Karadeniz, the Pontic Alps rise steeply from the Black Sea coast, creating a landscape of dense forests, rushing rivers, and, higher up, these verdant alpine meadows that burst into life in late spring and summer. These yaylas become temporary homes for many families.

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The tradition of moving to the yayla is an ancient and practical response to the region's geography and climate. Lower coastal areas can be hot and humid in summer, and grazing land can become scarce. The higher altitudes, however, offer cooler temperatures and fresh, abundant grass for livestock. So, as winter snows melt, a seasonal migration begins. Families pack essential belongings, gather their cattle, and make the often arduous journey up winding mountain paths to their yayla homes. These are not usually permanent, year-round villages but rather seasonal settlements, often consisting of distinctive wooden houses or cabins, built to withstand the mountain conditions.

Life in the Clouds: Traditions and Community

Life on the yayla is traditionally defined by a deep connection to the natural world, a strong sense of community, and a practical need for self-sufficiency. The daily rhythms are set by the needs of the livestock; this often involves milking cows in the cool mountain air, and then the skilled work of transforming that milk into cheese, butter, and rich yoghurt or the famous Karadeniz kaymak (a type of clotted cream). Many families also continue the age-old practice of foraging for wild edible plants and herbs, which are used both for food and in traditional medicine, a knowledge passed down through generations.

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The architecture seen on the yaylas is also quite distinct. Houses and cabins are typically built from local timber, with designs cleverly adapted to the challenging mountain environment. You might see sturdy construction meant to withstand strong winds and heavy winter snows (even if only used in summer, the structures must endure year-round), often with sections built to provide shelter for animals as well. The overall look is often very different from the stone or concrete houses found in the larger towns and villages at lower altitudes. The food eaten on the yayla naturally reflects the available resources. Fresh dairy products are central, of course. Simple, hearty dishes made from cornmeal (a staple ingredient throughout the Black Sea region), locally grown vegetables if the season permits, and various preserved foods brought up from the villages are common, all contributing to a unique highland flavour.

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Perhaps one of the most important aspects of yayla life is the strong sense of community. Living in these relatively isolated highland settlements, often with just a few dozen families, naturally encourages interdependence and cooperation. Neighbours rely on each other for help with tasks, for company, and for support. Social gatherings, shared work like mending fences or bringing in hay (if grown), and local festivals that might coincide with the summer yayla season are all important parts of the experience. Evenings could be spent gathered together, perhaps around a fire if the weather is cool, sharing stories, news from the villages below, or the distinctive sounds of Karadeniz music, often featuring the lively kemençe (a small, three-stringed fiddle). This close-knit community life, lived in direct response to the weather, the changing seasons, and the needs of the animals, fosters an intimacy with the mountain landscape and a way of being that is hard to find in more urban settings. ‍

The Changing Yayla: Modernity and Tradition

Like many traditional ways of life around the world, Karadeniz yayla culture is facing changes in modern times. Improved roads and modern transport have made access to some yaylas easier, which can alter the nature of the seasonal migration – what was once a multi-day trek on foot or with pack animals might now be a shorter journey by vehicle. Some yaylas have also become popular destinations for tourists seeking fresh air and scenic beauty, which brings both economic opportunities and potential pressures on the traditional lifestyle and environment.

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Younger generations may be less interested to follow the demanding rhythms of yayla life, drawn instead to education or work opportunities in towns and cities. This can lead to a gradual decline in the number of families practicing traditional transhumance, and a risk that the associated knowledge and cultural practices could fade over time. However, there is also a growing appreciation, both locally and nationally, for the unique cultural heritage and sustainable land use practices that yayla life represents, leading to some efforts to support and preserve these traditions.

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The Karadeniz yayla tradition offers a remarkable window into a way of life deeply attuned to the rhythms of nature and the demands of a mountain environment. It speaks of resilience, community, and a profound connection between people, their animals, and the highland pastures that sustain them. Even as modern life brings changes, the "summer in the clouds" continues to hold a special place in the cultural identity of Turkey's Black Sea region, a testament to the enduring value of living in harmony with the seasons.

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