In the ancient city of Mardin, situated high above the Mesopotamian plains in Southeast Turkey, history isn't just found in its stunning stone architecture; it's vibrantly alive in the unique flavours of its food and the resilient story of its local Syriac wine. Here, a single dish, a particular blend of spices, or a glass of wine crafted from ancient grape varieties can tell a tale as rich and layered as any historical chronicle. This is a city where centuries of cultural mixing – Syriac, Kurdish, Arab, and Turkish influences – haven't just shaped buildings, but have simmered together to create a distinct and deeply memorable gastronomy (style of cooking and eating), alongside a nearly forgotten tradition of winemaking that speaks volumes about cultural endurance.

For us, Ola and Riza, discovering Mardin's edible heritage was essential to understanding its soul. To taste Mardin is to embark on a journey through a culinary landscape forged at a historic crossroads, and to uncover a surprising story of winemaking survival that adds another fascinating layer to this city's identity.

A Food Mosaic: Flavours Created at the Crossroads

Mardin's food clearly shows its history as a meeting point. Located where Anatolian (from modern Turkey), Mesopotamian, and Levantine (from countries along the eastern Mediterranean like Syria and Lebanon) worlds connect, its dishes have taken and changed elements from each. This has resulted in a way of cooking that is uniquely Mardin's own. Lamb and bulgur (a type of cracked wheat) are common basic ingredients, but it's the special use of local herbs, spices, and traditional ways of cooking that make Mardin's food different.

One famous dish is kaburga dolması (stuffed lamb ribs). This isn't a simple roast; it's a carefully prepared dish where a pocket in the lamb ribs is filled with a fragrant mixture of rice, minced meat, almonds, small dried grapes (currants), and many different spices. It's then slow-cooked until it's perfectly tender. The result is a dish that feels both simple and special, a main dish for celebrations. Then there's sembusek, a savoury baked pastry like a small folded pizza (calzone), usually filled with seasoned minced meat or sometimes cheese and herbs. Its pinched, sealed edges show careful handiwork.‍

‍The use of spices is subtle but full of character. Besides the common red pepper flakes, you'll find the unique smell of zahter (a wild thyme mixture), sumac (a tangy, lemony spice), and various local herbs that give a special regional flavour – what wine experts call terroir (the way the local environment affects taste) – to stews, salads, and meat dishes. Even simple dishes like lebeniye (a yogurt and bulgur soup) or various mezzes (small appetizer dishes) have this distinct Mardin touch. This isn't just "Turkish food"; it's a specific, very local style shaped by centuries of shared kitchens and exchanged recipes among its different communities.

The Vine's Lasting Story: Mardin's Syriac Wine History

Perhaps one of Mardin's most surprising and touching food stories is about its wine. While Turkey has a very long and ancient history of growing grapes and making wine (viticulture), the specific winemaking traditions of the Syriac Christian community in Mardin and the nearby Tur Abdin region (a historic Syriac heartland) show a remarkable ability to keep cultural traditions going. For thousands of years, this ancient community, one of the oldest Christian groups in the world, grew local types of grapes (indigenous grape varietals) and made wine both for religious ceremonies (sacramental use) and for everyday drinking.

This tradition, however, faced huge difficulties and was almost wiped out during the troubled times of the 20th century. Yet, with incredible strength and determination, it managed to survive. In recent years, there has been a quiet but firm effort to bring it back, often led by Syriac families returning to the lands of their ancestors or by monasteries wanting to protect this vital part of their heritage.

The wines themselves, often made from local grapes that are not well-known internationally, have a taste that is different from more famous wine styles. They can be strong red wines, fragrant white wines, or rosé wines. Each bottle carries not just the character of that year's harvest (vintage) but also the weight of a long, often difficult, history. Discovering and tasting these wines feels less like a simple enjoyment and more like taking part in an effort to save a culture.
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In Mardin, food and drink are much more than just things to eat and drink to survive; they are deep expressions of identity, history, and living together. The strong flavours of its traditional dishes tell a story of a city that has long been a "melting pot," taking in and changing influences to become something uniquely its own. The rediscovered tastes of its ancient wine heritage speak of strength, of a culture determined to keep its old traditions alive. To sit at a table in Mardin is to taste the very heart of a city that has seen thousands of years pass, a city whose stones tell stories, and whose flavours sing of a rich and lasting past.